Everything about Ithaca New York totally explained
» This article is about the City of Ithaca and the region. For the legally distinct town which itself is a part of the Ithaca metropolitan area, see Ithaca (town), New York.
While
Ithaca College is located just south of the city in the Town of Ithaca, the college is strongly linked to the city, further adding to Ithaca’s strong “
college town” focus and atmosphere.
The City of Ithaca is the center of the Ithaca-Tompkins County
metropolitan area (which also contains the separate municipalities of
Town of Ithaca,
Village of Cayuga Heights,
Village of Lansing and other towns and villages in
Tompkins County). The city is the
county seat of Tompkins County. In 2000, the city's population was 29,287, and the metropolitan area had a population of 100,135. 2004 estimates puts the city population at 29,952, an increase of 2.3%.
The Namgyal Monastery in Ithaca is the North American seat of His Holiness
Tenzin Gyatso, the 14th Dalai Lama.
History
Early history
The inhabitants of the Ithaca area at the time of European expansion were the
Saponi and
Tutelo Indians, dependent tribes of the
Cayuga Indians who formed part of the
Iroquois confederation. These tribes had been allowed to settle on Cayuga-controlled hunting lands at the south end of
Cayuga Lake as well as in Pony (originally Sapony) Hollow of
Newfield, New York, after being forced from
North Carolina by European expansion. They were driven from the area by the
Sullivan Expedition which destroyed the Tutelo village of Coregonal, located near the junction of state routes
13 and
13A just south of the Ithaca city limits. Indian presence in the current City of Ithaca was limited to a temporary hunting camp at the base of Cascadilla Gorge. The destruction of
Iroquois confederation power opened the region to settlement by people of European origin, a process which began in
1789. In
1790, an official program began for distributing land in the area as a reward for service to the American soldiers of the Revolutionary War; most local land titles trace back to the Revolutionary war grants. Lots were drawn in 1791; informal settlement had already started.
Partition of the Military Tract
As part of this process, the
Central New York Military Tract, which included northern Tompkins County, was surveyed by Simeon DeWitt. His clerk
Robert Harpur had a fondness for ancient Greek and Roman history as well as English authors and philosophers (as evidenced by the nearby townships of Dryden and Locke). The Commissioners of Lands of New York State (chairman Gov.
George Clinton) followed Harpur's recommendations at a meeting in 1790. The Military Tract township in which proto-Ithaca was located he named the
Town of Ulysses, the Latin form of the Greek
Odysseus from Homer's Odyssey. A few years later DeWitt moved to Ithaca, then called variously "The Flats," "The City," or "Sodom," and named it for the Greek island home of
Ulysses (still the surrounding township at the time — nowadays Ulysses is just a town in Tompkins County). Contrary to popular myth, DeWitt didn't name many of the classical references found in
Upstate New York such as
Syracuse and
Troy; these were from the general classical fervor of the times.
The Odyssey is routinely taught to elementary school students in the Ithaca area.
The growth of Ithaca, village and city
In the
1820s and
1830, Ithaca held high hopes of becoming a major city when the primitive Ithaca and Owego Railway was completed in 1832 to connect the
Erie Canal navigation with the Susquehanna River to the south. In
1821, the village set itself off by incorporation at the same time the Town of Ithaca parted with the parent town of Ulysses. These hopes survived the depression of
1837 when the railroad was re-organized as the Cayuga & Susquehanna and re-engineered with switchbacks in the late 1840s; much of this route is now used by the
South Hill Recreation Way. However, easier routes soon became available, such as the Syracuse, Binghamton & New York (1854). In the decade following the Civil War railroads were built from Ithaca to all surrounding points (
Geneva, New York;
Cayuga, New York;
Cortland, New York;
Elmira, New York;
Athens, Pennsylvania) mainly with financing from
Ezra Cornell; however, the geography of the city has always prevented it from lying on a major transportation artery. Nevertheless, the village of Ithaca became a chartered city in 1887. When the
Lehigh Valley Railroad built its main line from Pennsylvania to Buffalo in 1890 it bypassed Ithaca (running via eastern
Schuyler County on easier grades), as the
Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad had done in the 1850s. Ithaca became a city in 1888 and remained a small manufacturing and retail center until the recent education boom. In 1891, the Rev. John M. Scott and a local druggist, Chester Platt, invented the
ice cream sundae in Ithaca, though other cities, such as
Two Rivers, Wisconsin, make the same claim.
Local Industry
Ithaca was nationally known for the
Ithaca Gun Company, makers of highly-valued shotguns, and
Ithaca Calendar Clocks. The largest industry was the Morse Chain company, still active in
Lansing, New York, as
Borg Warner Automotive and on South Hill as
Emerson Power Transmission. In the post-World War II decades,
National Cash Register and the
Langmuir Research Labs of
General Electric were also major employers.
Higher education
Cornell University was founded by
Ezra Cornell in
1865. It was opened as a
coeducational institution, which was extremely unusual at the time; women first enrolled in
1870. Ezra Cornell also established a
public library for the city.
Ithaca College was founded as the Ithaca Conservatory of Music in
1892.
The film industry
During the early 20th century, Ithaca was an important center in the
silent film industry. The most common type of film produced was the
cliffhanger serial. These films often featured the local natural scenery. Many of these films were the work of
Leopold Wharton and his brother
Theodore Wharton in their
studio on the site of what is now
Stewart Park. Eventually the film industry centralized in
Hollywood, which offered the possibility of year-round filming, and film production in Ithaca effectively ceased. Few of the silent films made in Ithaca are preserved today.
Geography and climate
The valley in which Cayuga Lake is located is long and narrow with a north-south orientation. Ithaca is at the southern end (the "head") of the lake, but the valley continues to the southwest behind the city. Originally a river valley, it was deepened and widened by the action of Pleistocene ice sheets over the last several hundred thousand years. The lake, which drains to the north, formed behind a dam of glacial
moraine. The rock is predominantly
Devonian and, north of Ithaca, is relatively fossil rich.
Glacial erratics can be found in the area. The world renowned
fossils found in this area can be examined at the
Museum of the Earth.
Ithaca was founded on flat land just south of the lake — land that formed in fairly recent geological times when silt filled the southern end of the lake. The city ultimately spread to the adjacent hillsides, which rise several hundred feet above the central flats: East Hill, West Hill, and South Hill. Its sides are fairly steep, and a number of the streams that flow into the valley from east or west have cut deep
gorges, usually with several
waterfalls.
Ithaca experiences a moderate
continental climate, with cold, snowy winters and sometimes hot and humid summers. The valley flatland has slightly milder weather in winter, and occasionally Ithacans experience simultaneous snow on the hills and rain in the valley. The phenomenon of mixed precipitation (rain, wind, and snow), common in the late fall and early spring, is known
tongue-in-cheek as
ithacation to many of the local residents.
(External Link
)
The natural vegetation of the Ithaca area, seen in areas unbuilt and unfarmed, is northern
temperate broadleaf forest, dominated by
deciduous trees.
Due to the
microclimates created by the impact of the lakes, the region surrounding Ithaca (
Finger Lakes American Viticultural Area) experiences a short but adequate growing season for winemaking. As such the region is home to many
wineries.
Education
Ithaca is a major educational center in
Central New York. The city is home to
Ithaca College, situated on South Hill, and
Cornell University which overlooks the town from East Hill. The
student population is very high, as almost 20,000 students are enrolled at Cornell, with an additional 6,300 students at Ithaca College.
Tompkins Cortland Community College is located in the neighboring town of
Dryden, New York, and has an extension center in downtown Ithaca.
The
Ithaca City School District, which encompasses Ithaca and the surrounding area, enrolls about 5,500 K-12 students in eight elementary schools, two middle schools,
Ithaca High School, and the
Lehman Alternative Community School, which provides its students wide-ranging freedom to choose their own curriculum. There are also several private elementary and secondary schools in the Ithaca area, including
Immaculate Conception School and the
Cascadilla School.
Economy
The economy of Ithaca is based on education and manufacturing with high tech and tourism in strong supporting roles. As of 2006, Ithaca remains one of the few expanding economies in economically troubled New York State outside of New York City, and draws commuters from the neighboring rural counties of
Cortland,
Tioga, and
Schuyler, as well as from the more urbanized
Chemung County.
With some level of success, Ithaca has tried to maintain a traditional downtown shopping area that includes the
Ithaca Commons pedestrian mall and Center Ithaca, a small mixed-use complex built at the end of the urban renewal era. Some in the community regret that downtown has lost vitality to two expanding commercial zones to the northeast and southwest of the old city. These areas contain an increasing number of large retail stores and restaurants run by national chains. Others say the chain stores boost local shopping options for residents considerably, many of whom would have previously shopped elsewhere, while increasing sales tax revenue for the city and county. Still others note that the stores, restaurants, and businesses that remain in downtown are not necessarily in direct competition with the larger chain stores. The tradeoff between sprawl and economic development continues to be debated throughout the city and the surrounding area. (Another commercial center, Collegetown, is located next to the Cornell campus. It features a number of restaurants, shops, and bars, and an increasing number of high rise apartments and is primarily frequented by
Cornell University students.)
Ithaca has many of the businesses characteristic of small American university towns: used bookstores, art house cinemas, craft stores, and vegetarian restaurants. The collective
Moosewood Restaurant, founded in 1973, was the wellspring for a number of vegetarian cookbooks;
Bon Appetit magazine ranked it among the thirteen most influential restaurants of the twentieth century.
Culture
Ithacans support the
Ithaca Farmers Market, professional theaters (
Kitchen Theatre,
Hangar Theatre,
Icarus Theatre), a civic
orchestra, much parkland, the
Sciencenter, a hands-on science museum for people of all ages, and the
Museum of the Earth. Ithaca is noted for its annual artistic celebration of community: The
Ithaca Festival (and its parade), the
Circus Eccentrithaca. Local live music is very prominent in the culture of Ithaca, the home of several nationally known acts such as
Johnny Dowd,
John Brown's Body,
Donna the Buffalo, The Horseflies, and
The Burns Sisters. The
Constance Saltonstall Foundation for the Arts provides grants and Summer Fellowships at the
Saltonstall Arts Colony for New York State artists and writers. Ithaca also hosts what is described as the third-largest
used-book sale in the United States.
Other festivals occur annually, with music and food. These include The Apple Festival in the fall, with many different varieties of apples and apple products; Chili Fest in February, a local contest involving many local restaurants who compete to make the best chili in several different categories.
Many Ithaca-area musicians participate in the
Grassroots Festival, held in nearby Trumansburg.
Ithaca has also pioneered the
Ithaca Health Fund, a popular cooperative health insurance. Ithaca is also home to one of the United States' first
local currency systems,
Ithaca Hours, developed by
Paul Glover (building on the pioneering work of
Ralph Borsodi and
Robert Swann).
Media
The dominant
local newspaper in Ithaca is a morning daily, The
Ithaca Journal, founded 1815. The paper is owned by
Gannett, Inc., publishers of
USA Today. The
alternative weekly newspaper
Ithaca Times has a larger circulation, though it should be noted that the Times is distributed free of charge. Other area publications include
Tompkins Weekly, the
Ithaca Community News the
Cornell Daily Sun, the
Ithacan, and the
Tattler. (The latter three are run by student staffs at Cornell University, Ithaca College, and Ithaca High School, respectively.)
Ithaca is also home to a wide variety of
radio stations.
WVBR is run by
Cornell University students, but is an independent, commercial station in the
rock format, playing a mix of modern and classic rock during the week and specialty shows on the weekend.
WICB is a non-commercial student-run station, run by communications students at
Ithaca College. The Cayuga Radio Group, a subsidiary of
Saga Communications, Inc., owns Q-Country and Lite Rock 97.3, a country and soft rock station, respectively. I-100 is a classic rock station owned by
Citadel and located in
Cortland, and The Wall, based in
Auburn, has a transmitter in Ithaca.
Politics
Politically, the city's population has a significant tilt towards
liberalism and the
Democratic Party. This contrasts with the more
conservative leanings of the surrounding
Upstate New York region, and is also somewhat more liberal than the rest of
Tompkins County. In 1988
Jesse Jackson received the most votes in Ithaca in the Democratic Presidential primary. In 2000
Ralph Nader received more votes for President than
George W. Bush. In 2008,
Barack Obama won
Tompkins County in the Democratic Presidential Primary, the only county that he won in New York State.
Local government
The name Ithaca designates two governmental entities in the area, the
Town of Ithaca and the
City of Ithaca.
The Town of Ithaca is one of the nine towns comprised by
Tompkins County. (Towns in New York are something like townships in other states; every county outside New York City is subdivided into towns.) The City of Ithaca is surrounded by, but legally independent of, the Town. The Town of Ithaca contains the
Village of Cayuga Heights, a small incorporated upper-middle class suburb located to the northeast of the City of Ithaca.
The City of Ithaca has a
mayor-council government. The charter of the City of Ithaca provides for a full-time
mayor and city judge, each independent and elected at large. Since 1995, the mayor has been elected to a four-year term, and since 1989, the city judge has been elected to a six-year term. Since 1983, the city has been divided into five wards, each electing two members to the
city council, known as the Common Council, for staggered four-year terms.
The Town government consists of an executive, the Town Supervisor, elected to a four-year term, and a Town Council of three members also elected for terms of four years.
The majority of local property taxes are actually assessed by an entirely independent agency with entirely different borders, the
Ithaca City School District.
City-Town consolidation
In December 2005, the City and Town governments began discussing opportunities for increased government consolidation, including the possibility of joining the two into a single entity. This topic had been previously discussed in 1963 and 1969.
The possibility of consolidation is controversial for Town residents who could be forced to pay higher taxes as they help shoulder the higher debt burden that the City has taken on. Some Town residents also worry that consolidation could lead to increased sprawl and traffic congestion. However, most of the Town's population is already concentrated in
hamlets in proximity to the City's borders and Town residents take advantage of City amenities. Mayor
Walter Lynn of the Village of Cayuga Heights (a wealthy Ithaca suburb located in the Town) called consolidation discussion a "waste of time."
Greater Ithaca
The term "Greater Ithaca" encompasses both the City and Town of Ithaca, as well as several smaller settled places within the Town:
Municipalities
Demographics
As of the
census of 2000, there were 29,287 people, 10,287 households, and 2,962 families residing in the city. The
population density was 5,360.9 people per square mile (2,071.0/km²). There were 10,736 housing units at an average density of 1,965.2/sq mi (759.2/km²). The racial makeup of the city was 73.97%
White, 6.71%
Black or
African American, 0.39%
Native American, 13.65%
Asian, 0.05%
Pacific Islander, 1.86% from
other races, and 3.36% from two or more races.
Hispanic or
Latino of any race were 5.31% of the population.
There were 10,287 households out of which 14.2% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 19.0% were
married couples living together, 7.8% had a female householder with no husband present, and 71.2% were non-families. 43.3% of all households were made up of individuals and 7.4% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.13 and the average family size was 2.81.
In the city the population was spread out with 9.2% under the age of 18, 53.8% from 18 to 24, 20.1% from 25 to 44, 10.6% from 45 to 64, and 6.3% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 22 years. For every 100 females there were 102.6 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 102.2 males.
The median income for a household in the city was $21,441, and the median income for a family was $42,304. Males had a median income of $29,562 versus $27,828 for females. The
per capita income for the city was $13,408. About 13.5% of families and 40.2% of the population were below the
poverty line, including 22.4% of those under age 18 and 11.7% of those age 65 or over.
Infrastructure
Transportation
Ithaca is in the rural
Finger Lakes region about 250 miles to the northwest of
New York City; the nearest larger cities,
Binghamton and
Syracuse, are an hour's drive away by car, while
Rochester is about two hours away.
Ithaca is served by
Ithaca Tompkins Regional Airport, located about three miles to the northeast of the city center.
US Airways Express offers flights to
New York LaGuardia and
Philadelphia using a mixture of small jets and propeller craft.
Northwest Airlink provides twice-daily service to
Detroit Metro airport. Many residents travel to
Syracuse Hancock International Airport,
Greater Binghamton Airport,
Elmira-Corning Regional Airport or
Greater Rochester International Airport for more service options.
Ithaca lies at over a half hour's drive from any
interstate highway, and all car trips to Ithaca involve at least some driving on two-lane state rural highways. The city is at the convergence of many regional two-lane state highways: Routes
13,
13A,
34,
79,
89,
96,
96B, and
366. These are usually not congested except in Ithaca proper. There is frequent intercity bus service by Greyhound Lines, New York Trailways, and Shortline (Coach USA), particularly to
Binghamton and
New York City, with limited service to
Rochester,
Buffalo and
Syracuse, and (via connections in
Binghamton) to Utica and Albany.
Ithaca is the center of an extensive bus public transportation system —
Tompkins Consolidated Area Transit (TCAT) — which carried 3.1 million passengers in 2005. TCAT was reorganized as a non-profit corporation in 2004 and is primarily supported locally by Cornell University, the City of Ithaca and Tompkins County. TCAT operates 39 routes, many running seven days a week. It has frequent service to downtown, Cornell, Ithaca College, and the Pyramid Mall in the neighboring Town of
Lansing, but less frequent service to many residential and rural areas, including
Trumansburg and
Newfield.
Chemung County Transit runs weekday commuter routes into
Schuyler and
Chemung counties, and
Tioga County Public Transit runs weekday routes into neighboring
Tioga, primarily to serve Cornell employees who prefer to live in these rural counties, or are forced to because of the high house prices near Ithaca.
GADABOUT Transportation Services, Inc. provides demand-response paratransit service for seniors over 60 and people with disabilities
Ithaca Dispatch, and Finger Lakes Taxi provides local and regional taxi service. Ithaca Airline Limousine connects to the airport.
Regional short haul freight trains reach Ithaca from
Sayre, Pennsylvania, mainly to deliver coal to the Milliken Power Station halfway up Cayuga Lake. There is no
passenger rail service, although from the 1870s through the 1930s there was service to Buffalo via
Geneva, New York; to New York City via
Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania (
Lehigh Valley Railroad) and
Scranton, Pennsylvania (
DL&W); to
Auburn, New York; and to the
US northeast via
Cortland, New York; service to Buffalo and New York City lasted until 1961.
As a growing urban area, Ithaca is facing steady increases in levels of vehicular traffic on the city grid and on the state highways. Outlying areas have limited bus service, and many people consider a car essential.
However, Ithaca is a walkable and bikeable community for others. One positive trend for the health of downtown Ithaca is the new wave of increasing urban density in and around the Ithaca Commons. Because the downtown area is the region's central business district, dense mixed-use development that includes housing may increase the proportion of people who can walk to work and recreation, and mitigate the likely increased pressure on already busy roads as Ithaca grows. The downtown area is also the area best served by frequent public transportation. Still, traffic congestion around the Commons is likely to progressively increase.
Unlike most urbanized areas in the United States, Ithaca doesn't have direct access to the
Interstate highway system. In 1968, it was proposed to convert Route 13 from Horseheads to Cortland through Ithaca into a limited access highway (it is currently such for three miles heading north from Ithaca), but the plan lost local and State support.
Other recent changes and trends
For decades, the
Ithaca Gun Company tested their shotguns behind the plant on Lake St.; the shot fell into Fall Creek (a tributary of Cayuga Lake) right at the base of Ithaca Falls. A major clean-up effort sponsored by the United States
Superfund took place from 2002 to 2004.
The former Morse Chain company factory on South Hill, now owned by Emerson Power Transmission, was the site of extensive groundwater and soil contamination. Emerson Power Transmission has been working with the state and South Hill residents to determine the extent and danger of the contamination and aid in cleanup.
Reputation
Ithaca is commonly listed among the most culturally liberal of American small cities. The
Utne Reader named Ithaca "America's most enlightened town" in 1997. According to ePodunk's Gay Index, Ithaca has a score of 231, versus a national average score of 100.
Like many small college towns, Ithaca has also received accolades for having a high overall quality of life. In 2004,
Cities Ranked and Rated named Ithaca the best "emerging city" to live in the United States. In 2006, the Internet realty website "Relocate America" named Ithaca the fourth best city in the country to relocate to. In July 2006, Ithaca was listed as one of the "12 Hippest Hometowns for Vegetarians" by
VegNews Magazine and chosen by
Mother Earth News as one of the "12 Great Places You've Never Heard Of."
These designations have at times polarized some local residents: some note the recognition with pride, some see it as an indication of decadence, and others feel that it's a narrow view of the community. Some, particularly conservatives, note that the positive press often appears in left-leaning publications, or have more general questions about the methodologies used in determining the designations.
In its earliest years during frontier days, what is now Ithaca was briefly known by the names "The Flats" and "Sodom," because of its reputation as a place of horse racing, gambling, profanity, Sabbath breaking, and readily available liquor. These names didn't last long;
Simeon DeWitt renamed the town Ithaca in the early 1800s, though nearby
Robert H. Treman State Park still contains Lucifer Falls.
That early reputation for immorality, together with its more recent reputation as having a left-leaning population, has once again made Ithaca mildly infamous in some circles as the "City of Evil," due to a satirical campaign by members of a politically conservative online discussion board. Some Ithacans have embraced the label.
This idea is further buoyed by Cornell University's early nickname, "the godless university" which came about due to their lack of affiliation with any organized religion.
Points of interest
Collegetown
Cornell University » * Cornell Plantations
* Cornell Dairy Bar » * Llenroc House
* F.R. Newman Arboretum » * Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology
Ithaca College
Ithaca Commons
Moosewood Restaurant
Sciencenter
Paleontological Research Institution's Museum of the Earth
Stewart Park
Buttermilk Falls State Park
Robert H. Treman State Park
Finger Lakes Trail
For additional information about recreational trails see: Trails in Ithaca, New York.
Books set (at least partially) in Ithaca
Lolita by Vladimir Nabokov (schoolgirl dialog captured on Ithaca city buses)
Pnin by Vladimir Nabokov ('Waindell University' a portrait of Cornell)
War Between the Tates by Alison Lurie ('Corinth University', a thinly-disguised portrait of Cornell)
Been Down So Long It Looks Like Up to Me by Richard Fariña ('Mentor University', same as above)
The Widening Stain by Morris Bishop
The Names of the Dead by Stewart O'Nan
Enchantment by Orson Scott Card (partially set in Ithaca and fictional nearby towns)
Various Kurt Vonnegut books have Ithaca references, most notably Player Piano, Slaughterhouse-Five, and Cat's Cradle
Fool on the Hill by Matt Ruff
The Emigrants by W.G. Sebald
The Alex Bernier Mysteries by Beth Saulnier takes place in a fictionalized Ithaca known as Gabriel
We Were the Mulvaneys by Joyce Carol Oates
Triphammer by Dan McCall
Mailman by J. Robert Lennon takes place in a fictionalized Ithaca known as Nestor
Z For Zachariah by Robert C. O'Brien
Between Two Fires by Nicholas Nicastro describes scenes in and around the site of Ithaca during the Revolutionary War
Movies set or filmed (at least partially) in Ithaca
Green Lights (2002) — dir. Robert H. Lieberman
The Manhattan Project — dir. Marshall Brickman
Road Trip (2000) — dir. Todd Phillips
The Sure Thing (1985) — dir. Rob Reiner
Waiting on Alphie (2005) — dir. Kevin Hicks
See also The Whartons Studio for films shot in Ithaca prior to 1920.
Notable residents and natives
This list is abridged from
Hans Bethe, resident, physicist, Nobel Prize winner, Cornell Professor, head of theoretical division of the Manhattan Project
Alex Haley, native, author of and the Autobiography of Malcolm X
Mary McDonnell, native, actor in Dances with Wolves, Independence Day, Battlestar Galactica, and others
Vladimir Nabokov, resident, Cornell Professor, author (most famously of Lolita)
Roy H. Park, resident, media executive, founder of Park Communications and the Park Foundation
Carl Sagan, resident, astronomer, Cornell Professor, popularizer of science, and author and host of
Rod Serling, resident (of nearby Interlaken, NY), Ithaca College Professor, screenwriter, creator and host of The Twilight Zone
Steve Squyres, resident, astronomer, Cornell Professor, Principal Investigator of the Mars Exploration Rover Mission
E.B. White, resident, novelist, author of Charlotte's Web and co-author of The Elements of Style
Paul Wolfowitz, native, academic, Deputy Secretary of Defense (2001-2005), former President of the World Bank (2005-2007)
Dustin Brown, NHL player for the Los Angeles Kings
Josh Bard. MLB baseball catcher for the San Diego Padres
Greg Graffin, resident, lead singer of the seminal punk band Bad Religion and holds a Ph.D from Cornell University in Zoology.Further Information
Get more info on 'Ithaca New York'.
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